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How to put on an adjustable upper leg harness

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How to put on an adjustable upper leg harness

If you go to your local pet store, you’ll notice a great selection of dog accessories, including dog harnesses, which are an alternative to traditional dog collars. Top Paw Company makes two types of harnesses. The first time you put one of these on your dog it can be confusing due to its configuration of straps and buckles.

Instructions

Determine the type of harness

  • Lay the harness out flat in front of you before you bring your dog forward.
  • Look at the harness shape to determine which upper leg harness style you have. If the harness is a flat oval shape with a vertical strap down the middle and buckles at each end of the oval, it is an “entry”-style harness. If the harness has two circles connected by two vertical straps, with a buckle on the larger circle, you have a “traditional”-style harness.
  • Follow the specific steps below for each type of harness depending on which style you have.

Harness Leg Top Sink Style

  • Stop your dog in front of you, with him in front. You may need someone to hold the dog if it is wiggling or uncooperative. Place the “entrance”-style mallet on the ground in front of your dog. The buckles at the end of the ovals should be to the right and left of your dog’s front legs and the vertical strap should be pointing from you to your dog.
  • Pick up your dog’s left front foot and place inside the oval to your dog’s left. Put your feet on the ground, making sure that this foot is between the dog’s left buckle and the vertical strap in the center.
  • Pick up your dog’s right front foot and place inside the oval to your dog’s right. Put your feet on the ground, making sure that this foot is between the buckle on the right of the dog and the vertical strap in the center.
  • Take the buckles at both ends of the oval. With your dog’s feet positioned on the floor, pull the buckles and belts toward the dog’s shoulders. The vertical tape in the middle should be between the dog’s front legs. Connect the two buckles on the dog’s shoulders. If the fit is too tight or too loose, adjust the size using the adjustment points.

Traditional style upper leg harness

  • Hold the harness out in front of you. Locate the metal “D-ring,” which is a ring in the shape of the letter D. Hold the harness so the D-ring is at the top, closest to your body, with the rest of the harness pointing away from you. you. The straps that form a circle connected to the D-ring have a buckle. Make sure it is pulled out for now.
  • Position yourself next to your dog, facing the same direction you are facing. You may need a person to hold your dog if he is wiggling or uncooperative.
  • Place the furthest circle of leashes away from you over the dog’s head, around its neck. Don’t get past the second circle (the one with the buckle and ring) yet.
  • Find the vertical strap at the bottom of the harness (on the opposite side of the D-ring). This leash goes between your dog’s front legs. Lift the forefoot is the opposite of the open buckle and pull it through the gap between that vertical strap and the closed part of the large circle of straps.
  • Hold the open buckle together on the other side of the vertical strap. Your dog should end up with a circle of webbing around his neck, the circle of buckled webbing around his ribcage, and with a vertical leash between his front legs and the vertical leash connected to the D-ring between his shoulders. The ring should be closer to the dog’s tail than its head. If the fit is too tight or too loose, adjust the size using the adjustment points.

Tips and Warnings

  • To properly size the harness, there should ideally be room for two human fingers to fit under the saddle at all points, so make sure it’s not too tight or too loose.
  • Clip the dog’s leash and place identification tags on the metal D-ring of the harness. Lavatory style has 2 D-rings. Hook leash through two D-rings for security.
  • Harnesses are desirable for dogs that play socially with each other, as regular collars can choke if dogs become entangled. Harnesses decrease the chance of strangulation due to their design.
  • Dogs can sometimes get their mouths on the harness straps and possibly chew through them. Always check that the upper leg harness is fully intact before use.
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RAISING MEALWORMS

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RAISING MEALWORMS

Mealworms are among the most common and straightforward to raise feeding insects for reptiles and amphibians. These tiny creatures are very nourishing for pets like lizards and frogs, but you can also eat a couple if you choose! Continue reading to find out how to cultivate mealworms if you’re looking for an excellent feeder bug. It pays to have some background knowledge on raising mealworms if you’re interested in doing so. A mealworm is not a worm at all, which is a fascinating fact right off the bat! The darkling beetle, also known by its scientific name Tenebrio molitor, has four life phases total. You could have encountered a few variations in your search for the ideal meal for your reptile because there are currently over 20,000 different species of darkling beetles.

 

Despite the fact that many of the larvae have a similar appearance, you can tell the common feeder species apart based on the mealworm’s life cycle and behaviour. For instance, the molitor mealworm has a segmented body that is cream to light brown in colour, with each segment being identified by a dark brown line. Its body gets darker as it gets older and gets closer to adulthood.

 

The Mealworm Life Cycle

The mealworm goes through four phases in total:

 

EGG

Mealworm eggs, or darkling beetle eggs, are distinguishable by their appearance as a tiny, white, bean-shaped piece of dust. In the mealworm’s native environment, where it is typically hidden by wheat bran and other substrates, it will be challenging to spot. Between one and four weeks, the mealworm will stay in this substrate.

 

LARVA

This phase of the beetle’s life cycle, which is frequently referred to as the “mealworm stage,” typically lasts 8 to 10 weeks. Although it starts out very little, the mealworm quickly reaches its maximum length of 1 inch. The mealworm must moult, or lose, its exoskeleton as it grows. During the larval stage, moulting can take place up to 20 times. The larva of the mealworm consumes food and stores it for growth into adulthood during this stage of its life cycle. This explains why it is so nourishing.

 

PUPA

This is possibly the stage of a mealworm’s life cycle that has the most peculiar appearance. The mealworm changes into a curled-up pupa during the last moult of the larval stage. It no longer has a mouth or anus, therefore it is unable to consume food at this moment. Although it has legs and tiny buds that may eventually develop into wings, it cannot move these bodily parts and instead remains immobile. As the organs mature for adulthood, this phase lasts for around three weeks.

 

ADULT

The adult darkling beetle, which lives for one to three months, is initially white and has a fragile exoskeleton that eventually becomes rigid. The shell’s hue darkens as it dries, first turning brown and eventually black. The insect has wings, yet it can’t fly. It doesn’t start reproducing until a few days after reaching adulthood, so you have plenty of time to keep rearing mealworms.

 

Where Can You Find Mealworms?

Mealworms are indigenous to a number of African nations, but because of human activity, they have spread to other parts of the globe and are now found naturally in North America. They thrive in dark, moist soil, where they happily burrow and eat decomposing organic waste like rotting wood and leaves. They can also be observed snatching a little piece of room in animal dens.

 

Mealworms will seek refuge in comparable surroundings in captivity, as well as in cities and human-dominated landscapes, but they will eat grains, bad and rotting food, and uncultivated flora. They are a vital component of the ecology wherever they are found because they clean up organic matter that may otherwise be left out, become unattractive, or emit unpleasant scents.

 

Mealworms are more likely to be found in populated areas than in the wild, though. They may more easily get nutrients in such environments, particularly in homes, grocery stores, warehouses, and farms, where food waste is so prevalent.

 

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